Work!: A Queer History of Modeling

Author:   Elspeth H. Brown
Publisher:   Duke University Press
ISBN:  

9781478000334


Pages:   368
Publication Date:   28 May 2019
Format:   Paperback
Availability:   In Print   Availability explained
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Work!: A Queer History of Modeling


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Overview

From the haute couture runways of Paris and New York and editorial photo shoots for glossy fashion magazines to reality television, models have been a ubiquitous staple of twentieth- and twenty-first-century American consumer culture. In Work! Elspeth H. Brown traces the history of modeling from the advent of photographic modeling in the early twentieth century to the rise of the supermodel in the 1980s. Brown outlines how the modeling industry sanitized and commercialized models' sex appeal in order to elicit and channel desire into buying goods. She shows how this new form of sexuality-whether exhibited in the Ziegfeld Follies girls' performance of Anglo-Saxon femininity or in African American models' portrayal of black glamour in the 1960s-became a central element in consumer capitalism and a practice that has always been shaped by queer sensibilities. By outlining the paradox that queerness lies at the center of capitalist heteronormativity and telling the largely unknown story of queer models and photographers, Brown offers an out of the ordinary history of twentieth-century American culture and capitalism.

Full Product Details

Author:   Elspeth H. Brown
Publisher:   Duke University Press
Imprint:   Duke University Press
Weight:   0.680kg
ISBN:  

9781478000334


ISBN 10:   1478000333
Pages:   368
Publication Date:   28 May 2019
Audience:   Professional and scholarly ,  Professional & Vocational
Format:   Paperback
Publisher's Status:   Active
Availability:   In Print   Availability explained
This item will be ordered in for you from one of our suppliers. Upon receipt, we will promptly dispatch it out to you. For in store availability, please contact us.

Table of Contents

"Acknowledgments  ix Illustrations  xiii Introduction  1 1. From the Artist's Model to the Photographic Model: Containing Sexuality in the Early Twentieth Century  25 2. Race, Sexuality, and the 1920s Stage Model  69 3. Queering Interwar Fashion: Photographers, Models, and the Queer Production of the ""Look""  103 4. Black Models and the Invention of the US: ""Negro Market,"" 1945-1960  163 5. ""You've Got to Be Real"": Constructing Femininity in the Long 1970s  211 Epilogue  271 Notes  277 Bibliography  313 Index  337"

Reviews

Modelling is a queer business in every sense of that word. Brown's exploration of it is fascinating: intelligent and unexpected in the turns that its analysis takes. This is no glib foray into celebrity culture, no superficial survey of supermodels. . . . A strikingly original, non-normative telling of 20th-century culture. -- Shahidha Bari * Times Higher Education * Whether it's the showgirls of the 1920s, fashion photographer George Platt Lynes spearheading 'queer glamour' in the 1930s, or the groundbreaking Black models of the 1950s and '60s, Brown's book will reshape our understanding of the modeling industry. -- Evette Dionne * Bitch Magazine *


Whether it's the showgirls of the 1920s, fashion photographer George Platt Lynes spearheading 'queer glamour' in the 1930s, or the groundbreaking Black models of the 1950s and '60s, Brown's book will reshape our understanding of the modeling industry. -- Evette Dionne * Bitch Magazine *


Author Information

Elspeth H. Brown is Associate Professor of History at the University of Toronto, coeditor of Feeling Photography, also published by Duke University Press, and author of The Corporate Eye: Photography and the Rationalization of American Commercial Culture, 1884–1929.

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