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Author:   Julie Wertz ,  Linda Welters (University of Rhode Island USA)
Publisher:   Bloomsbury Publishing PLC
Imprint:   Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Dimensions:   Width: 18.90cm , Height: 2.50cm , Length: 24.60cm
Weight:   0.454kg
ISBN:  

9781350216501

ISBN 10:   135021650
Pages:   232
Publication Date:   22 February 2024
Audience:   College/higher education ,  Tertiary & Higher Education
Format:   Paperback
Publisher's Status:   Active
Availability:   Available To Order  
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Table of Contents

List of Figures Preface Acknowledgments Note on the text Introduction 1. The Most Brilliant Color Dyed on Cotton 1.1. Defining Turkey red 1.1.1. A reputable red 1.1.2. A complicated process 1.2. Identifying Turkey red 1.3. Material record 1.4. Conclusion 2. Global Exchanges and Anthraquinone Dyes 2.1. The origin and dissemination of Turkey red 2.1.1. India 2.1.2. Indonesia 2.1.3. The Levant and the Ottoman Empire 2.1.4. The Hapsburg Empire 2.1.5. France 2.1.6. Britain 2.2. Madder 2.2.1. The cultivation of madder 2.2.2. Madder composition and derivatives 2.3. Synthetic alizarin 2.3.1. Understanding alizarin 2.3.2. Alizarin synthesis and patent disputes 2.3.3. Synthetic alizarin products 2.4. Conclusion 3. The Dyeing, Chemistry, and Technological Advances of Turkey Red 3.1 Oiling 3.1.1Oiling in the old process 3.1.2The chemistry of oiled cotton 3.1.3Ruminant dung and tannins 3.1.4Turkey red oil and the new process 3.1.5The Steiner process 3.2 Aluminium 3.2.1Precipitated aluminium soaps 3.3 Dyeing 3.3.1Color complexes in Turkey red 3.3.2 Blood and albumen 3.4. Clearing 3.5. Conclusions 4. Printed Turkey Red 4.1. Textile printing methods 4.2. Discharge printing 1.1.3.Lead plate press discharging 1.1.4.Acid paste discharging 4.3. A bright palette 1.1.5.Black, blue, yellow, and green 1.1.6.Identifying colorants on Turkey red prints 4.4. Design 1.1.7.Industrial design and production 1.1.8.European design for the export market 4.5. Conclusions 5. Turkey Red in the Industrial Revolution 5.1. Turkey red industry by country 5.1.1.France 5.1.2. England 5.1.3. Scotland 5.1.4. Switzerland 5.1.5. The Netherlands 5.1.6. North America 5.1.7. Other locations 5.2. Working conditions and labor 5.3. Colonialism 5.4. Conclusions 6. Trade, Use, and Object Record 6.1. Documentary evidence of availability 6.2. How Turkey red was used 6.2.1. Bandanas 6.2.2. Domestic textiles, quilts and bedcovers 6.2.3. Accessories, garments, and tools 6.3.Conclusions Conclusions Glossary References Index

Reviews

Wertz manages to wrangle the long history, broad geographies, scientific intricacies, and varied applications of Turkey red into a highly readable and easily understood text – a feat as awe-inspiring as the dyeing process that is the book’s topic. * Courtney Wilder, University of Michigan, USA * What a fantastic read! Mystery, time and magic have defined the process of creating bright red colours on cotton for centuries. Julie Wertz explains it very clearly in her beautifully illustrated book. A perfect read for both textile historians and modern-day enthusiasts of dyeing and colour. * Debbie Bamford, University of Leeds, UK *

Author Information

Julie Wertz is Beal Family Postgraduate Fellow in Conservation Science at Harvard Art Museums, USA.

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