Overview

The Surfer's Guide to Waves, Coasts and Climates will appeal to surfers and all those who are fascinated by the sea and the coast. The perfect wave is every surfer's dream. But where does that wave come from, and what makes it perfect? It doesn't just appear on the coast, but may be the result of a storm thousands of kilometres away, which depends on the air flow in the upper atmosphere; this, in turn, may rely on long-term atmospheric patterns that affect the entire globe. When a swell arrives at the coast, it already has its own unique character. But whether the waves are going to be rights, lefts, short, long, fast, hollow, or even rideable at all, depends on the characteristics of the coast. And the coast itself is the result of a unique set of processes, linked to the rest of the planet and going back into the depths of time. The Surfer's Guide to Waves, Coasts and Climates covers everything from coastal geology, climatic cycles and big waves, to coastal erosion, tsunamis and the effects of global warming on the surf. All this is explained in layman's terms, with clear illustrations, so all you need to enjoy it is curiosity and a liking for the coast and the waves.

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9780906720585

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Author Information

Dr Tony Butt is a big wave specialist based in the Basque Country, and Post Doctoral Research Fellow at the University of Plymouth, UK. He is the author of Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing, and a regular contributor to European surfing magazines. He runs a wave prediction website, www.swell-forecast.com.

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