Overview

Have you ever wondered where surf-ing waves come from, what makes every wave dif-fer-ent, why some peel per-fectly and oth-ers just close out; why, some days, the waves come in sets and other days they don’t, and how the tides, the wind and the shape of the sea floor affect the waves for surf-ing? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its third edi-tion, Surf Sci-ence is the first book to talk in depth about the sci-ence of waves from a surfer’s point of view. It fills the gap between surf-ing books and waves text-books, and will help you learn how to pre-dict surf. Surf Sci-ence is also a use-ful intro-duc-tion to ocean-o-graphy and the sci-ence of waves. You don’t need a sci-entific back-ground to read it – just curi-os-ity and a fas-cin-a-tion for waves.

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9780906720899

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Tony Butt has a PhD in Phys-ical Ocean-o-graphy and worked with the Coastal Pro-cesses Research Group at Plymouth University for some ten years. He is the author of The Surfer’s Guide to Waves, Coasts and Climates, and has written many articles on the science of surfing and the coastal environment, including a regular oceanography column in The Surfer’s Path magazine. He is a big-wave surfer and lives for most of the year in a forgotten corner of north-west Spain.

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