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9781780238494

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Lane ends her book on a melancholy note. Shrimp-eating does more harm to the environment, both animal and human, than most other kinds of food production. Trawling scoops up whole ecosystems and discards half of them as by-catch. Farming is a polluting, fetid business. Shrimp shuckers and sorters are as low on the global labor chain in the twenty-first century as they were in the nineteenth, held in peonage and subjected to the corrosive effects of mountains of shrimp shells. Shrimp marketing in the United States is probably the most fraud-ridden section of the supermarket, where product is routinely mislabeled as to country and method of origin. They are delicious little guys, but there may be no way of enjoying them on the scale we're accustomed to without devastation and misery ensuing. --Tim Morris lection

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Yvette Florio Lane is a writer and social and cultural historian based at Rutgers, the State University of New Jersey.

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