Overview

Petra Zeller Dotlacilová's study examines the development of theatrical costumes in France during the long 18th century, including the abandonment of long-established traditions, the need to negotiate with the dictates of fashion, and the translation of new ideas into material practice. Using Louis-René Boquet (1717–1814) - the leading costume designer of the French court and the Paris Opera - as its lens, the book traces the development of costume reform from an aesthetics of propriety, defined by strict conventions, to an aesthetics of truthfulness, more open to ideas and inspiration from the visual arts and from real life. Full of rich primary source material in the form of newspaper articles, letters, plays, librettos, drawings and images of garments, and illustrated in full colour throughout, the author shows how playwrights, theatre managers, designers, tailors and performers all contributed to the changes in the design and conception of costume during the 18th century.

Full Product Details

Author:   Petra Zeller Dotlacilová (Stockholm University, Sweden)
Publisher:   Bloomsbury Publishing PLC
Imprint:   Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Dimensions:   Width: 19.00cm , Height: 2.20cm , Length: 24.40cm
Weight:   0.800kg
ISBN:  

9781350531000

ISBN 10:   1350531006
Pages:   240
Publication Date:   19 February 2026
Audience:   College/higher education ,  Postgraduate, Research & Scholarly
Format:   Hardback
Publisher's Status:   Forthcoming
Availability:   To order  

Table of Contents

Acknowledgements Note on Translation List of Abbreviations Introduction Studying historical costume in performance Boquet: between tradition and reform Chapter 1: Making of Costume for Performing Arts Design Process at the French Court and the Opéra Costumes at Comédie-Française, Comédie-Italienne and Opéra Comique Self-fashioning at the Opéra: Designer vs the Soloists Shaping Costumes According to Performing Arts and Gender Chapter 2: The Tradition, or the Aesthetics of Propriety To Dress Properly: Social Norms of Clothing ‘Something rich and yet true to nature’: verisimilitude and the merveilleux The Artistic Genres: Rules and Principles Dressing the genres: French costumes for opera and ballet before Boquet Breaking point: Expanding genres and fashions The freedom of the fairground theatre and the Comédie-Italienne Chapter 3: The First Wave of Reform, or Towards the Aesthetics of Truthfulness What is a ‘truthful costume’? Les philosophes on costume and dress The Reform in Practice: The problem of genre Chapter 4: Reform at the Opéra and the court Between the court and the fairground theatre: shepherds, peasants and Le Devin du village Le Devin du village: a play with the appearances First Greeks ‘correctly costumed in ancient style’ at the Opéra Old Alceste in new clothes ‘Costumes of all ages and countries’ Chapter 5: How to Dress Dance? Development and diversity of dance techniques Habit sérieux Habit demi-caractère Habit comique Chapter 6: Towards the Second Wave of the Reform, and Beyond New fashions, new costumes: the triumph of simplicity Boquet and Neoclassicism Stage costume between nature and art Glossary Bibliography List of Illustrations Index

Reviews

A new costume studies key work has been born. Petra Zeller Dotlacilová’s foundational study on performance costume in 18th-century France delivers a thorough yet tremendously enjoyable combination of academic substance and critical scrutiny. This includes an exemplary use of equally beautiful and analytically relevant images, resonating with the written words. -- Astrid von Rosen, University of Gothenburg, Sweden Beautifully illustrated and drawing from multiple archives, this volume is a rigorous and in-depth study of costume for performance through the bold designs of Louis-René Boquet. -- Donatella Barbieri, University of the Arts London, UK

Author Information

Petra Zeller Dotlacilová holds a PhD in Dance Studies from the Academy of Performing Arts in Prague, Czech Republic, as well as a PhD in Theatre Studies from Stockholm University, Sweden. In her research, she specializes on European dance history and theatrical costume of 16th to 18th century. In particular, she explores aesthetic and material properties of costumes, international transfers in design and relations between garments and movement practices.

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