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OverviewNose reconstructions have been common in India for centuries. South Korea, Brazil, and Israel have become international centers for procedures ranging from eyelid restructuring to buttock lifts and tummy tucks. Argentina has the highest rate of silicone implants in the world. Around the globe, aesthetic surgery has become a cultural and medical fixture. Sander Gilman seeks to explain why by presenting the first systematic world history and cultural theory of aesthetic surgery. Touching on subjects as diverse as getting a ""nose job"" as a sweet-sixteen birthday present and the removal of male breasts in seventh-century Alexandria, Gilman argues that aesthetic surgery has such universal appeal because it helps people to ""pass,"" to be seen as a member of a group with which they want to or need to identify. Gilman begins by addressing basic questions about the history of aesthetic surgery. What surgical procedures have been performed? Which are considered aesthetic and why? Who are the patients? What is the place of aesthetic surgery in modern culture? He then turns his attention to that focus of countless human anxieties: the nose.Gilman discusses how people have reshaped their noses to repair the ravages of war and disease (principally syphilis), to match prevailing ideas of beauty, and to avoid association with negative images of the ""Jew,"" the ""Irish,"" the ""Oriental,"" or the ""Black."" He examines how we have used aesthetic surgery on almost every conceivable part of the body to try to pass as younger, stronger, thinner, and more erotic. Gilman also explores some of the extremes of surgery as personal transformation, discussing transgender surgery, adult circumcision and foreskin restoration, the enhancement of dueling scars, and even a performance artist who had herself altered to resemble the Mona Lisa. The book draws on an extraordinary range of sources. Gilman is as comfortable discussing Nietzsche, Yeats, and Darwin as he is grisly medical details, Michael Jackson, and Barbra Streisand's decision to keep her own nose. The book contains dozens of arresting images of people before, during, and after surgery. This is a profound, provocative, and engaging study of how humans have sought to change their lives by transforming their bodies. Full Product DetailsAuthor: Sander L. GilmanPublisher: Princeton University Press Imprint: Princeton University Press Edition: New edition Dimensions: Width: 15.20cm , Height: 2.10cm , Length: 23.50cm Weight: 0.539kg ISBN: 9780691070537ISBN 10: 0691070539 Pages: 424 Publication Date: 12 November 2000 Audience: Professional and scholarly , College/higher education , Professional & Vocational , Tertiary & Higher Education Format: Paperback Publisher's Status: Active Availability: Manufactured on demand ![]() We will order this item for you from a manufactured on demand supplier. Language: English Table of Contents"List of Illustrations ix Preface xvii CHAPTER ONE: Judging by Appearances 3 What Is Aesthetic Surgery? 3 Why Is It Aesthetic Surgery? 8 Remaking the Self 16 ""Passing"" 21 Criminal Bodies 26 Gender Questions 31 ""Before and After"" 36 CHAPTER TWO: Victory over Disease 42 Amy and the Princess 42 The Syphilitic Nose 49 The Strange Case of Tristram Shandy 60 Renaissance Noses 66 A Cure from the Colonies 73 CHAPTER THREE: The Racial Nose 85 Enlightenment Noses 85 The Jewish Nose 88 Irish Noses 91 ""Oriental"" Noses-and Eyes 98 Black into White ill CHAPTER FOUR: Marks of Honor and Dishonor 119 Character Inscribed on the Face 119 Too-Jewish Ears and Noses 124 The Telltale Foreskin 137 Greek Ideals 144 CHAPTER FIVE: Noses at War 157 Fixing Shattered Faces 157 Patriotic Noses and Weimar Surgery 169 Nazi Noses 177 CHAPTER SIX: Assimilation in the Promised Lands 186 Helping Jews Become Americans 186 The Israeli Experience 199 The Importance of Being Barbra 202 CHAPTER SEVEN: After the Nose 206 Erotic Bodies 206 Buttocks Have Meaning 210 Big Breasts and Bellies 218 Small Breasts -- No Breasts? 237 CHAPTER EIGHT: The Wrong Body 258 Men with Breasts 258 Transsexual Surgery 268 The First Cut Is the Deepest 288 CHAPTER NINE: Dreams of Youth and Beauty 295 Beauty and Age 295 Post-Aesthetic Bodies 319 CONCLUSION: ""Passing"" as Human 329 Notes 335 Index 385"ReviewsA [wide-ranging] and enjoyable work... Gilman has an eye for detail, yet remains aware of the wider perspective. He also raises important questions... In [this] rich, elegant and beautiful [book] he shows that the history of aesthetic surgery is too important to be left to the surgeons. -- Jonathan Cole Times Literary Supplement There is one theme that links all [Gilman's] work: how human beings construct images of others to define themselves... [He] has been unafraid to examine areas that academics have traditionally shied away from. The New York Times [A] readable and useful book... Through Mr. Gilman's long lens, the search for beauty and the fashion for plastic surgery are not a contemporary ill, but something older and more universal. The Economist Review [Gilman] tells a strange, macabre, and often richly comic story of shifting desires. His book shows a dazzling European erudition... There is now less furtiveness attached to aesthetic surgery. But the question remains--and Gilman asks it cleverly, humanely, and persistently--whether new appearances just gloss over old problems and often create new ones. New York Review of Books Far from the body representing immutable essences of beauty or horror, the history of aesthetic surgery confirms that the body bears witness to public ideologies of sexual and racial difference. And the body has its own invisible memories of tragedy from which, for some, aesthetic surgery offers the promise of transcendence. -- Beatrix Campbell The Independent Bravely navigating the ethnic maze with admirable aplomb, ... [Sander Gilman] considers nearly every hyphenated group's American dream of becoming something else. He gets away with such brazenness ... by constantly offering entertaining literary and pop culture references upon which we can all hang our hats. -- Margo Hammond The New York Observer A fascinating combination of text and illustration and of literary, medical, and scientific information. A thoughtful history by an author who knows his material well and has a sympathetic understanding of human beings as well as a lively sense of humor. Booklist A fascinating and provocative book... Library Journal [Gilman's] fast-paced narrative blends cultural criticism with discussion of medical techniques and ethics in a thoughtful study that should appeal to both a lay and professional readership. Publishers Weekly With its bizarre amalgam of new developments in medicine and prevailing trends in fashion, aesthetic surgery is a phenomenon that begs for examination, and Gilman, as both historian and critic, proves equal to the task... Face-lifts, nose jobs, liposuction, decircumcision, buttocks implants, breast augmentation, and breast reduction, among other procedures, present themselves, Gilman dryly notes, as surgical cures for what is often essentially a psychological problem--a persistent sense of discontent. -- Holly Brubach The Atlantic Monthly Rich in both detail and fascinating illustrations, Gilman's history shows aesthetic surgery as a response to the exigencies of contemporary cultures. -- Bettyann Holtzmann Kevles Isis Gilman's research is thorough, his analysis thoughtful, and the presentation thought-provoking. Choice Making the Body Beautiful is an important contribution to our understanding of th emergence and significance of aesthetic surgery. It is a must for anyone concerned with our present cultural obsession with beauty and the makability of the body. And it provides a model for writing medical history that is not limited to charting the facts, but tries to understand their meaning as well. -- Kathy Davis Bulletin of the History of Medicine A richly illustrated, delightfully crafted cultural history of aesthetic surgery ... An informative and captivating history of our attempts to make our bodies beautiful. -- Londa Schiebinger American Historical Review Gilman tells a timely, yet previously largely untold tale. By presenting the complex interaction of ideas, social relations, technology, psychiatry (and the madness of doctors as well as patients), the author makes a valuable contribution to our understanding of our times. -- Erika Bourguignon The Antioch Review From rebuilding syphilis-ravaged noses in the 1600s to the current rage for breast sculpting, this is an enlightening consideration of how aesthetic surgery arises from and is shaped by cultural concerns of the age. University of Chicago professor Gilman (The Jew's Body, not reviewed; Smart Jews: The Construction of the Image of Jewish Superior Intelligence, 1996) clearly differentiates aesthetic from other types of plastic surgery: reconstructive, for instance, restores function, while the name aesthetic surgery seems to be a label for those procedures which society at any given time sees as unnecessary, as non-medical, as a sign of vanity , He identifies the roots of such procedures in the syphilis epidemic of the 15th century. The disease caused the nose to collapse in on the face, so the first nose re-sculptings were devised to repair the obvious marker and stigma of having syphilis. Gilman goes on to look at The Racial Nose (Jewish, Irish, Asian, and black): there was a notion of 18th and early 19th century anthropology that Jewish and black noses indicated a primitive character. Similarly, he traces changes in the significance ofo the breast; at the turn of this century, large breasts were considered primitive, small breasts were considered modern ; only after WWII, he notes, did breast augmentation surgery overtake breast reductions. Gilman also considers how the ideal profile has changed with the ages, and how the treatment of war injuries has influenced aesthetic surgery. Gilman is not trying for a comprehensive survey of the field - rather, he follows certain threads through history with the goal - fully accomplished - of awakening readers' interest. A scholarly, if quirky, look that serves as a history of our notions about the body and the significance of its parts. (Kirkus Reviews) Here's a fascinating detailed account of aesthetic surgery since the mid-19th-century - the reconstruction of noses, breast enhancing and buttock-lifting, liposuction, abdominoplasty, 'foreskin reconstruction' (don't ask) and (oh dear, yes) the swopping about of genitals. Fascinating, yes; but not for the squeamish, and as if detailed descriptions of the surgery were not enough, the reader is provided with bloody close-ups of noses built from the skin of the forehead, vaginas invented from the ruins of penises, penises contrived from folds of stomach fat... An excellent present, perhaps, for a squeamish enemy? (Kirkus UK) Author InformationSander L. Gilman is Distinguished Professor of the Liberal Arts and Sciences and Professor of Medicine, University of Illinois at Chicago; he is also Director of the Humanities Laboratory there. He is the author or editor of over fifty books, including Seeing the Insane, Jewish Self-Hatred, The Jew's Body, Hysteria: A New History, and Freud, Race, and Gender (Princeton). Tab Content 6Author Website:Countries AvailableAll regions |