Overview

With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The Whale Warriors, recounts his remarkable journey of discovery--of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean's beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave--that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder--in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords listeners vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.

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9781799987833

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Heller has learned that surfing is not simply about staying up on your board; it's about love: of a woman, of living, of the sea.-- Publishers Weekly Starred Review

"Heller has learned that surfing is not simply about staying up on your board; it's about love: of a woman, of living, of the sea.-- ""Publishers Weekly Starred Review"""

Heller has learned that surfing is not simply about staying up on your board; it's about love: of a woman, of living, of the sea.-- ""Publishers Weekly Starred Review""

Author Information

Peter Heller is a seasoned adventure journalist and a senior contributor to Outside magazine. Before tackling Tibet, he kayaked in the footsteps of Hemingway along the Cuban coastline, depicted in his exposé Cuba: A Dry Run. He is also the author of Hell or High Water: Surviving Tibet's Tsangpo River and Set Free in China: Sojourns on the Edge. Peter lives in Denver, where he kayaks daily on a lake 100 yards from his front door. Mike Chamberlain is an actor and voice-over performer in Los Angeles. His voice credits range from radio commercials and television narration to animation and video game characters.

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