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OverviewJugendstil, that is Germany's distinct engagement with the international Art Nouveau movement, is now firmly engrained in histories of modern art, architecture and design. Recent exhibitions and publications across the world explored Jugendstil's key protagonists and artistic centres to firmly anchor their activities within the trajectories of German modernism. Women, however, continue to be largely absent from these revisionist accounts. Jugendstil Women and the Making of Modern Design argues that women in fact actively participated in the cultural and socio-economic exchanges that generated German design responses to European modernity. By drawing on previously unpublished archival material and a series of original case studies including Elsa Bruckmann's Munich salon, the Photo Studio Elvira and the Debschitz School, the book explores women's important contributions to modern German culture as collectors, consumers, critics, designers, educators, and patrons. This book offers a new interpretation of this vibrant period by considering diverse manifestations of historical female agency that pushed against historically entrenched conventions and gender roles. The book's rigorous approach reshapes Jugendstil historiography by positing women's lived experiences against dominant ideologies that emerged at this precise moment. In short, the book advocates women as an integral part of the emergence, dissemination and reception of Jugendstil and questions the deeply gendered histories of this key period in modern art, architecture and design. Full Product DetailsAuthor: Sabine Wieber (University of Glasgow, UK)Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing PLC Imprint: Bloomsbury Visual Arts Weight: 0.530kg ISBN: 9781350088528ISBN 10: 1350088528 Pages: 248 Publication Date: 18 November 2021 Audience: College/higher education , College/higher education , Professional and scholarly , Tertiary & Higher Education , Tertiary & Higher Education Format: Hardback Publisher's Status: Active Availability: Manufactured on demand  We will order this item for you from a manufactured on demand supplier. Table of ContentsList of Figures Acknowledgments Introduction: A New Style for a New Age? 0.1 Modern Women 0.2 The Cultural Geography of Munich around 1900 0.3 Munich - Berlin 0.4 Prince Regent Luitpold 0.5 The Term Jugendstil 0.6 Chapters Summary 1. Maker: Margarethe von Brauchitsch and the United Workshops 1.1 Introducing Margarethe von Brauchitsch 1.2 The Vereinigte Werkstatten fur Kunst im Handwerk 1.3 The Kunstsalon Littauer 1896 1.4 The 'Seventh International Art Exhibition' at the Munich Glaspalast 1.5 The United Workshops and Margarethe von Brauchitsch 1.6 A New Direction for Embroidery 1.7 The Materiality of Margarethe von Brauchitsch's Embroideries 1.8 Interiors and Textiles 1.9 Machine Embroidery 1.10 Embroidery and Jugendstil Historiography 1.11 Was Margarethe von Brauchitsch a Jugendstil Woman? 1.12 Relegated to the Sidelines 2. Activists: The Elvira Photography Studio and Munich Feminist Politics 2.1 August Endell's First Commission 2.2 August Endell and Munich Jugendstil 2.3 The Building and Its Facade 2.4 The Interior 2.5 The Patrons: Antia Augspurg and Sophia Goudstikker 2.6 Studio Photography in Munich around 1900 2.7 The Photo-Studio Elvira and Munich's Women's Movement 2.8 The Association for Women's Interests (1894) 2.9 Going their Separate Ways 2.10 Jugendstil Experimentation and Political Advocacy 2.11 Postscript 3. Students: Education Women at the Debschitz School 3.1 The Debschitz School at Dresden 3.2 Hermann Obrist (1862-1927) 3.3 Wilhelm von Debschitz (1871-1948) 3.4 The Lehr- und Versuchsatelier fur Angewandte und Freie Kunst 3.5 The Curriculum 3.6 Women at the Debschitz School 3.7 Art and Design Education in Munich around 1900 3.8 The Royal Applied Arts School (1868) 3.9 The weibliche Abteilung at the Royal School of Applied Arts (1872) 3.10 The Munich Women Artists' Association and its Frauenakademie 3.11 Women at the Debschitz School 3.12 Emilie Butters (1879-1961) 3.13 Modernism's Paradox 4. Patron: Fashionable Taste at Elsa Bruckmann's Salon 4.1 Elsa Bruckmann (1865-1946) 4.2 Munich-Vienna: The Todesco Palais 4.3 Marrying into a Publishing Empire 4.4 The Bruckmanns' New Headquarters 4.5 Munich-Glasgow: The Dining Room 4.6 Munich-London: Hermann and Anna Muthesius 4.7 Elsa Bruckmann's Debut as Salonniere 4.8 A Brief History of Salon Culture 4.9 The Mackintosh Dining Room-cum-Salon 4.10 Salon Culture and Gender 4.11 Elsa Bruckmann's 'Enhanced Independence' 5. Reformers: Dressing the Part 5.1 What is Artistic Dress? 5.2 Kunstlerkleider and German Dress Reform 5.3 Dress and Function 5.4 Fashion/Anti-Fashion 5.5 Maria van de Velde and Alfred Mohrbutter 5.6 Artistic Dress and Jugendstil Interiors 5.7 Health and Beauty 5.8 German Life Reform 5.9 Dress Reform and Germany's Women's Movement 5.10 Jugendstil Women and Dress Reform 5.11 Anna Muthesius and Else Oppler 5.12 Artistic Dress and the Department Store 5.13 The Kaufhaus Oberpollinger and the Warenhaus Hermann Tietz 5.14 Shopping Conclusion Bibliography IndexReviewsDiscussing many actors not widely known outside specialist circles, Sabine Wieber demonstrates the important roles women played not only in questions of design and creative practice, but also in social and political reforms, feminism, and education...The structure of the book is well-conceived to consider the broader categories beyond artist or designer, allowing Wieber to weave a narrative around complex social and political questions without falling into tropes of design icons or individual hagiographies. -- Journal of Design History This book goes beyond an exercise in writing forgotten women back into the history of the Jugendstil movement. Sabine Wieber explores the complex reality of women's design practice, education, patronage and taste-making and embeds in the realities of economic survival, inter-personal relationships, legal frameworks and the persistence of gendered thinking that circumscribed their lives and implacably erased their contributions from the historical record. -- Charlotte Ashby, Associate Lecturer in Art and Design History at Birkbeck, University of London, UK Lucidly written and packed with groundbreaking archival research, Jugendstil Women and the Making of Modern Design is a revolutionary investigation of a foundational but often misunderstood modernist movement. Sabine Wieber restores a range of essential yet largely forgotten female figures to a breathtakingly new history of Jugendstil art, craft, interior design, and fashion as well as its diverse manifestations in pedagogy, patronage and activism. -- Elizabeth Otto, Professor of Modern and Contemporary Art, The University at Buffalo, State University of New York, USA In this groundbreaking book, Sabine Wieber offers a much-needed corrective to male-centered narratives of Jugendstil. In detailed case studies that elaborate women's contributions as designers, makers, teachers, patrons, activists and salonnieres to a distinctly German variant of Art Nouveau, she both illuminates the important and very diverse roles that women played in the inception of this modern style and demonstrates the varied ways in which they used it to secure a place of increased personal, socio-economic and political power in the late German Empire. Historically and geographically specific to turn-of-the-century Munich, Jugendstil Women and the Making of Modern Design is a must-read revisionist history of modernism that does not simply supplement the narrative with women but questions the underlying structures of its historiography. -- Maria Makela, Professor Emerita of Visual Studies, California College of the Arts, USA Author InformationSabine Wieber is a Lecturer in History of Art at the University of Glasgow, UK. Tab Content 6Author Website:Countries AvailableAll regions |
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