Overview

At a moment of unprecedented creativity in men’s fashion, and continuing reflections on gender, contemporary designers are questioning established forms, seeking to liberate wearers from traditional models of masculine dress. This book combines fashion with artistic and broader cultural histories ­– looking at the designers, tailors and artists who have constructed and performed masculinity from the Renaissance to the present day. It traces connections across and beyond European menswear, celebrating both rich traditions and daring individualists. Divided into three parts, Undressed reveals the role of the body and underwear in fashioning masculinities. Overdressed explores the power dynamics of sartorial bravado, while Redressed deconstructs a modern masculine uniform: the black suit. Featuring a staggering range of cultural touchstones from Hercules to Virgil Abloh, Giovanni Battista Moroni to Jawaharlal Nehru, Yves Saint Laurent to Kehinde Wiley, Marcus Rashford, Marlene Dietrich and even Captain America, Fashioning Masculinities challenges our preconceptions about menswear, revealing the fascinating historical roots beneath the power, artistry and diversity of masculine attire and appearance today.

Full Product Details

Author:   Rosalind McKever ,  Claire Wilcox ,  Marta Franceschini ,  Virgil Abloh
Publisher:   V & A Publishing
Imprint:   V & A Publications
ISBN:  

9781838510114

ISBN 10:   1838510117
Pages:   272
Publication Date:   03 March 2022
Audience:   General/trade ,  General
Format:   Hardback
Publisher's Status:   Active
Availability:   In Print  
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Table of Contents

Director's Foreword, Tristram Hunt -- Introduction, Rosalind McKever -- UNDRESSED -- Marble Marvels and Classical Ideals, Susan Goldsmith -- A Polished Impression, Alun Withey -- Behind Clothes: Fashioning Men at the Museum, Satish Padiyar -- A Developed Muscle: Photographing Physique, Zorian Clayton -- Underpinnings: The Next Best Thing to Naked, Shaun Cole -- OVERDRESSED - Young Englishmen Behaving Badly (and Dressing Outrageously), Susan North - A Well-Turned Leg, Elisabeth Gernerd - Fine and Dandy, Claire Wilcox - Braggadocio: A Brief History of Swagger, Elizabeth Currie - Orlando as a Boyette, Rosalind McKever - Sartorial Encounters: The Kimono and Masculine Style, Anna Jackson - A Hibiscus Print, Cher Potter -- REDRESSED -- Monochrome Man, Christopher Breward -- A Full Monty, Miriam Phelan -- A Suitable Hat, Oriole Cullen -- Black, British and Stylish, Ekow Eshun -- A Tailored Sari, Avalon Fortheringham -- A Broken Suit, Marta Franceschini -- The Jacket Eroded, Borrowed, Evolved, Alastair O'Neill -- What Ever Happened to Contemporary Menswear?, Charlie Porter -- Epilogue, Gus-Casely Hayford -- Fashioning the Future -- Afterword, Virgil Abloh

Reviews

This exhibition is an active investigation into the way men dress and the very idea of masculinity itself. What better time for a studied enquiry than now - with male fashion at its most groundbreaking pioneered by the likes of Gucci's Alessandro Michele, who was behind the gown and tailored jacket worn by Harry Styles on the cover of American Vogue. He has said: 'Fashion should be genderless; how people perceive the idea of beauty can vary from one to another, ' so let us continue this enquiry. -- Tatler (4/4/2022 12:00:00 AM)

Author Information

Rosalind McKever is Curator of Paintings and Drawings at the V&A. Claire Wilcox is Senior Curator in the Department of Furniture, Textiles and Fashion at the V&A and Professor in Fashion Curation at London College of Fashion, University of the Arts, London. Marta Franceschini is Exhibition Research Assistant at the V&A.

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