Overview

Dress helps us fashion identity, history, community, and place. Dress has been harnessed as a metaphor for both progress and stability, the exotic and the utopian, oppression and freedom, belonging and resistance. Dressing with Purpose examines three Scandinavian dress traditions-Swedish folkdrakt, Norwegian bunad, and Sami gakti-and traces their development during two centuries of social and political change across northern Europe. By the 20th century, many in Sweden worried about the ravages of industrialization, urbanization, and emigration on traditional ways of life. Norway was gripped in a struggle for national independence. Indigenous Sami communities-artificially divided by national borders and long resisting colonial control-rose up in protests that demanded political recognition and sparked cultural renewal. Within this context of European nation-building, colonial expansion, and Indigenous activism, traditional dress took on special meaning as folk, national, or ethnic minority costumes-complex categories that deserve reexamination today. Through lavishly illustrated and richly detailed case studies, Dressing with Purpose introduces readers to individuals who adapt and revitalize dress traditions to articulate who they are, proclaim personal values and group allegiances, strive for sartorial excellence, reflect critically on the past, and ultimately, reshape the societies they live in.

Full Product Details

Author:   Carrie Hertz
Publisher:   Indiana University Press
Imprint:   Indiana University Press
Weight:   1.315kg
ISBN:  

9780253058577

ISBN 10:   0253058570
Pages:   260
Publication Date:   21 December 2021
Audience:   Professional and scholarly ,  Professional & Vocational
Format:   Hardback
Publisher's Status:   Active
Availability:   In Print  
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Table of Contents

Dedication Acknowledgements Map of Scandinavia A Note on Terms and Place Names Foreword, by Khristaan Villela Introduction: Can We Talk about Traditional Dress?, by Carrie Hertz Part One: Folkdräkt in Sweden 1. Swedish Folkdräkt, by Carrie Hertz 2. They Are at Peace Here, Like Old Friends in Their Caskets: Traditional Dress Collections as Heritage-making, by Lizette Gradén Part Two: Bunad in Norway 1. Norwegian Bunad, by Carrie Hertz 2. Headdress and Hijab: Bunad in Multicultural Norway, by Camilla Rossing 3. The Transnational and Personalized Bunad of the Twenty-First Century, by Laurann Gilbertson Part Three: Gákti in Sápmi 1. Sámi Gákti, by Carrie Hertz 2. The Legacy of Ládjogahpir: Rematriating Sápmi with Foremother's Hat of Pride, by Eeva-Kristiina Harlin and Outi Pieski Conclusion: The Future of Traditional Dress, by Carrie Hertz Bibliography List of Contributors Index

Reviews

This book deserves to become a central point of reference for anyone interested in traditional costume. -- Chloe Middleton-Metcalfe * Folklore *

Author Information

Carrie Hertz is Curator of Textiles and Dress at the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, New Mexico.

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