Overview

Examining Cartier's towards the end of the 19th century, two points stand out clearly: on the one hand, art nouveau elements are almost totally absent from Cartier's creations. We are struck instead by the presence of a singular reinterpretation of the neoclassical vocabulary through stylised floral motifs, and by a predilection for the architectural motifs of the period. Secondly, at the same time, Cartier introduced the use of platinum for the mounts. This metal was more solid, more luminous but also harder to work. This required a revolution in setting techniques and, in modifying the current practices and inaugurating the use of new tools and new underlying techniques, it raised Cartier to the position of visionary and pioneer. Article after article, he laid the foundations for the Cartier style. This beautifully illustrated volume allows reader to understand how and when it happened.

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9788861300262

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Nuno Vassallo e Silva is deputy-director of the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum in Lisbon. Maria Fernanda Passos Leite is chief curator for the Textile and Rene Lalique Collections at the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum. Judy Rudoe, an associate at The British Museum is a historian of the decorative arts and the author of several articles, books, and catalogs on decorative arts. Come Remy is a specialist in 20th-century decorative arts, and an expert on behalf of sales committees and insurance companies.

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