Overview

Seasoned journalist and writer Charles Jennings goes in search of the contradictions, cliches and surprises that make up a land that is singular in its clearly-held identity, cherished even by those with less than a second-cousin's-cat-once-removed claim to Scottish heritage. Stomping the quintessential Highlands from Inverness to Skye and risking frozen extremities to reach breathtaking Hebridean islands, he discovers a land of awe-inspiring beauty. And then travels city-wards to reach a nation of awe-inspiring iron(bru)-clad stomachs from the legendary deep-fried Mars Bar to the underrated and delicious haggis, classic oatcake, and fine whisky. Contemplating whether his great grandfather's legacy qualifies him to shed a tear at the sound of bagpipes, Charles Jennings compares the elegance of Edinbugh with the industrial action of Aberdeen, risks a pint in Kelvinside and sinks into the peaty bogs of Mull.

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This is a travelogue in the Bill Bryson mould, albeit with slightly more politics. Charles Jennings travels north of the border in search of the nature of Scotland and gets very wet; his route takes him through all of the major cities (Edinburgh, Glasgow, Dundee, Aberdeen) and most of the well-known tourist attractions (Loch Ness, Culloden) and his account is laced with meditations on such topics as Victoria and Albert's obsession with the Highlands, deep-fried haggis and the impact of the film Braveheart. Whether or not you like this sort of writing depends, I think, as much on whether or not the persona of the author appeals, as on the interest of the landscape he traverses. Fortunately, Jennings presents himself in an engaging way, as a slightly befuddled and somewhat frightened Englishman abroad. Bemused by the considerable eccentricities of Scottish life and irritated by the sort of unplanned disappointments that befall every traveller from time to time, he also has the warmth to be pleasantly surprised that the Highlands do, after all, live up to their romantic reputation or that one can survive a visit to a Glasgow pub. Binding all the separate incidents together is Jennings's overarching attempt to come to terms with the identity of Scotland as a whole and to speculate on its future. There are moments when Jennings's politics - anti-monarchy and pro-Europe - come through quite strongly, and these may be off-putting to some (although, among those who sympathize with him, they have led to slightly bogus comparisons with George Orwell). Nevertheless, this is an appealing and informative book that may well make you want to visit Scotland - if only to locate the deep-fried haggis. (Kirkus UK)

Author Information

harles Jennings was born in London and was educated there and at Oxford University. He is married with two children, and lives in London where he works as a writer. He has a regular column in the GUARDIAN's SPACE and now presents THE PROPERTY SHOW.

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